Budapest's New Main Street between Kálvin tér and Szabadság tér in district V. is a new pedestrian-friendly area of the city center.
The first phase of New Main Street between Kálvin tér and the Vígszínház was inaugurated on Easter Monday, 2010.
The "New Main Street of Budapest" project is 3 km stretch running parallel with the Danube and includes Kecskeméti utca, Egyetem tér, Ferenciek tere, Petőfi Sándor utca, Erzsébe tér, Október 6. utca, Szabadság tér and Honvéd utca. |
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Marble slab marking the beginning of Budapest's New Main Street at its southern end
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The second phase of the project will start towards the end of 2010. during which Ferenciek tere will be revamped into a spacious square.
Kálvin Tér - Ferenciek Tere
This part has been completely refurbished with new, more durable and aesthetic pavement, modern, elegant street lamps, benches, rubbish bins, and bicycle racks.
The Kálvin Square end of Budapest's New Main Street starts with Kecskeméti utca that includes an relic of the city's history: part of Pest's medieval city wall next to a cheesy nightclub entrance.

Remains of Pest's Medieval City Wall
In the middle ages Pest and Buda were separate settlements. At that time Pest (today the Inner City part of district V.) functioned as the outskirt of Buda and developed into a thriving crafts and trade city.
The city wall was built during the reign of King Matthias (1443-1490) following the line of today's Deák Ferenc utca-Károly körút-Múzeum körút-Kálvin tér-Vámház körút.
Pest could be entered via gates in the wall:
- Váci kapu,
- Hatvani kapu (at today's Astoria Hotel),
- Kecskeméti Kapu (at the corner of Kálvin tér Kecskeméti utca)
- Belgrádi kapu (presumably at the site where today's Váci utca meets Vámház körút)
- Duna kapu (along the line of Régiposta utca a small sidestreet of Váci Street)
- Vízikapu (where today's Sörház utca runs into the Danube embankment)
The thriving of Pest came to a stop during the Turkish occupation of the city. It started to revive in the 18th century when the city walls prohibited large-scale construction projects so they were pulled down or incorporated into buildings. Parts of it can be steel seen today (see the photo above).
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Much of the traffic is diverted from the New Main Street, only public transport buses and some other vehicles are allowed to drive through. Only Petőfi Sándor utca-Bécsi utca between Ferenciek tere and Harmincad utca remains open to traffic without any restrictions.
Besides reduced traffic the area between Kálvin tér-Egytem tér received a new modern streetscape. New more durable street covers were used. There are benches to take a break during a walk or just to sit down for a while.
The new street lamps are not only more decorative but consume less electricity than the older lighting system. |
My favorite part of the southern stretch of Budapest's New Main Street is Egyetem tér.
One of Budapest's best cafes, Cafe Alibi is next to the Eötvös Lóránd Tudományegyetem, a prominent University of Hungary.
The square and cafe is mostly frequented by university students.
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Cafe Alibi
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Coffee is very good in Alibi which is unfortunately a rarity in a Budapest - a city that once had a thriving coffee house culture.
Espresso, cappuccino, latte are the most popular coffee drinks on the menu.
The secret of their coffee is that they use freshly roasted coffee beans supplied by Semiramis a company specializing in roasting coffee beans from various parts of the world. (Africa, India, South-America, Southeast Asia).
Teas and freshly squeezed fruit juices, alcoholic drinks are also available.
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Besides house-baked croissants the breakfast menu includes more substantial items (ham and eggs, omlett, scrambled eggs).
There are also menu breakfasts until 12.00. For lunch/dinner you can choose from a variety of sandwiches, salads and grilled dishes.
Prices are moderate: espresso: 350 HUF, cappuccino: 420 HUF, cappuccino+croissant: 490 HUF, breakfast menus: cc. 1200-1500 HUF, sandwiches: 400-500 HUF, main dishes: 1300-1500 HUF.
Do devote some time to the lovely twin-tower church adjacent to the University building at the corner of Egyetem tér and Papnövelde utca. It is one of the most beautiful baroque churches of Hungary from the 18th century.
The Pauline order, the only order of monks with Hungarian origin, had the church built on the site of a former Turkish mosque.
The exterior features a tympanum and a row of pilasters that divide the façade. The emblem of the Pauline Order is flanked by statues of St Paul and St Anthony.
A thick wooden door adorned with rich carvings leads inside the single-aisle church. |

University Church - Egyetem tér
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The baroque paintings on the vaulted ceiling are the works of Johann Bergl from 1776 and depict scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary.
The carved main altar represents the birth of the Virgin Mary and was made by Conti Antal Lipót.
A copy of the painting Black Madonna of Czestochowa in Poland stands at the centre of the altar which was probably made in 1720.
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Meat Delights in Belvárosi Disznótoros
If you long for a traditional hearty Hungarian meal then try Belvárosi Disznótoros on Károlyi Mihály utca (opening hours: Mon-Fri: 7.00-20.00, Sat. 7.00-15.00). It is a buffet-style joint where you eat your food standing up at the counter.
The menu includes a choice of roasted meats (poultry, pork, beef), spicy sausages, hurka varieties (black pudding Hungarian style). Grilled meat slices made to order are also available. Pickles, coleslaw, potato salad, slices of white bread are offered to go with the meat dishes.
Prices are not higher than in a ordinary butcher shop:: cc. 200-300 HUF/100 g sausage/black pudding.
Károlyi Palace & Park
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The Neo-Classical Károlyi Palace in Károlyi Mihály utca today houses the Museum of Hungarian Literature and the Petőfi Exhibition dedicated to the famous poet of the 1848/49 Revolution and War of Independence Petőfi Sándor. |
The lovely Károlyi Park is a green serenity of the Inner City. Fountains, flowery park with walkways and benches invite visitors for a bit of rest.
Cafe Károlyi is a nice stop for coffee and cake or Italian style food if you'd like to have a lunch or dinner.
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Ferenciek Tere
Ferenciek tere will be reconstructed during the second part of the Main Street project. Today the square looks a bit run down with worn down benches and graffiti.

Fountain of the Nereids Statue (Nereidák Kútja) - Ferenciek tere
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A Franciscan Church and monastery (after which the square got its name) have stood on the site of the present Baroque-style church since the 13th century.
It was burned down during an attack by the Turks. The Franciscans rebuilt it in 1537 but the Turks converted it into a mosque in 1541,
After the liberation of Budapest the monks regained the building.
The most notable sight is the Baroque main altar with sculptures dating from 1741 and 1851.
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Kárpátia Restaurant a typical touristy (meaning rip-off) place in central Budapest is at Ferenciek tere. According to their marketing they specialize in traditional and contemporary Hungarian gastronomy. Although there are very few good restaurants offering good Hungarian food in Budapest based on the many complaints by both tourists and locals I encountered online you'd better skip Kárpátia.
Jégbüfé Cake Shop is another famous element of the communist era offering a wide assortment of creamy cakes, pastries and ice cream in summer.
Quality of cakes and coffee was much better in the old times; today the are made with too much gelatine and other artificial additives. You can get better cakes in other cafes and confectioneries (e.g the Cafe Károlyi mentioned above), but their gofri - waffles with chocolate, vanilla pudding or jam filling - is legendary.
The good thing is that it is open every day from 7.00 (from 8.00 on Sunday) till 21.30.
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Kamermayer Károly Square
The tiny romantic square is dominated by the statue of Kamermayer Károly. Behind it is a Parisian-style bistro, Gerlóczy Cafe. The terrace is packed with tables and is usually full with tourists during lunch time.

Kamermayer Károly Square and Gerlóczy Cafe
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Fountain on Szabadság Square
Here's a photo of the interactive fountain on Szabadság tér that was constructed during the 1st part of the Main Street project:

The interactive water play reacts to movement
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Related Articles
Inner City of Budapest - sights, attractions in district V.
Budapest Districts Guide - description of the major districts of the city.
Sightseeing in Budapest - tips on guided tours by walk, bus or boat.
Buda Castle - history, sights, restaurants, cafes and major events.
Parks in Budapest - the best parks in and outside the city centre.
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