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TIPS FROM LOCALS
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I started my tour at Batthyány Square the center of Budapest's old suburbian part (also called Watertown -Víziváros-) lying between the Castle Hill and the Danube. The square is a major transportation hub with a metro station (M2 red line), suburban train termini, tram and bus stops.
The graceful, two-towered Church of St Anne (Szent Anna templom), a fine example of Italian Baroque architecture, dominates Batthyány Square. The church was built between 1740-1762 based on the designs of Matthias Nepauer and the Hamon brothers.
On the top of the main gate symbolic figures of faith, hope and love greet the visitorm above them the coat of arms of city of Buda and in the upper niche statues of St Anne and Mary guards the entrance. 20th-century frescos adorn the interior that forms a cross. The altar and the other paintings date back to the 18th century. From the ceiling of the dome beautiful fresco by Pál Molnár looks down on you.
A puritan building form the 18th century, a former Franciscan convent later a hospital, now the Maltesian operates a idősekotthona stands opposite the Church of St Anne. Connected to the convent is a single-towered church with carved altars, painting frames and benches made by the Franciscan monks.
The square offers two other monuments the Baroque houses at No. 3. and 4. the latter is known as the largest inn in Buda in the Middle Ages. The postakocsi to Vienna departed form here.
The covered market on the eastern side of Batthyány Square is the only market in Budapest open on Sundays. You can have a few bites at Nagyi Palacsintázója (Grandma's Crepe Bar) next to the iron structure building of the market.
Walk north along Fő utca (Main Steet) lying parallel with the Danube. The huge Parliament building on the Pest bank will appear from time to time between blocks of buildings. The slightly shabby building of the Király Baths one of Budapest's Turkish Baths, is hiding shyly among a bunch of trees at the side of a small plaza. The prestigious bath dates back to the 16th century when the Turks reigned in Hungary.
You can stop for lunch at the Kacsa Restaurant (address: Fő utca 75., Tel: 201 9992) famous fo its duck specialities. The nearby Square that leads you to the Danube bank was named after József Bem a Polish general and hero of Hungary's 1848-49 war of independence against the Austrian regime.
If you're interested in industrial technology drop in the Museum of Casting (Öntödei Múzeum, address: Bem József utca 20., II. district, opening hours: Tue-Sun: 9.00-17.00) nearby. To tell you the truth I skipped this museum and continued my walk as far as the end of Fő utca. At the corner opposite the Buda end of Margaret Bridge (Margit híd) a large restaurant, Trófea Grill advertises its All You Can Eat offer.
Not being a hearty eater I went on towards a flight of stairs leading somewhere a couple of ten meters above street level. I climbed the stairs and ended up a secluded tiny park, Margaret Square (Margit tér), with a few benches and trees. The grass covered hilltop is a peaceful island in the midlle of buzzing north Buda where you can take a rest and listen to the humming city life.
From Margit utca turn into Mecset utca that leads you straight the Tomb of Gül Baba (Gül Baba Türbéje) a moslim pilgrimage site. A giant plane tree greets you after climbing up the steps to the garden.
In fact in the well-kept, terraced memorial park (opening hours: 1st Jan-30th Apr: 10.00-18.00 daily, 1st May-30th Sept: 10.00-18.00, closed on Mondays, 1st-31st Oct: 10.00-17.00 closed on Mondays, 1st Nov-31st Dec: 10.00-16.00 daikly, Gül baba was a Dervish and legend says that he died of over-excitement during an orgy held in today's Matthias Church that was turned into a mosque at that time. He was a talented horticulturalist and introduced cultivated roses to Hungary, that's why this part of Buda - today an exclusive residential area - is called Rózsadomb (Rose Hill). The rose bushes in the garden commemmorate this fact. His sarcophagus lies in the octagonal-shaped, domed tomb built between 1543-48.
You might not be enthusiastic about moslim monuments but the stunning view is worth climbing up there. Behind the tiled rooftops of residential Buda the Parliament building and the silver ribbon of the Danube draw the eye.
Fill up with caffeine at the cafe next to the memorial. Daubner - the Best Confectionery in Budapest For the best cakes and pastries in Budapest you'll have to walk a bit more, up Frankel Leó Street than continue on Szépvölgyi út where an unpretentious confectionery, the Daubner sells the most luscious cakes I ever happened to taste. Take tram No 17 from Margaret Bridge if you're don't feel like walking (though some physical exercise lessens the guilt felt over the huge calorie-intake) and get off at the 4. stop at Kolosy tér, from there walk up to Daubner on Szépvölgyi út.
Their ice cream is also of top quality. Salty snacks, scones are also sold and they're just as delicious as the sweet desserts. A slice of cake costs around 200-300 HUF.
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